| Items that make a difference.
Auger gearbox: The auger blades are driven by the impeller drive
shaft which goes into the auger gearbox. The auger gearbox contains
a shaft worm drive gear and
helical gear which drive the auger blades are important. The gears
use by the better makers are large and strong, Snapper, Simplicity, Ariens
and close Toro. MTD and AYP products gears are smaller.
The gears used by the lesser makers although not the quality of the best
makes are sufficient that with care can last many years. There are
lots of 20 year old MTD and Craftsman snowblowers around and some 30 years
old. The quality back then was a bit better. Still, more recent
builds are not as robust. Ariens makes several versions of most
models and the quality between models is pretty big and the price also.
One important difference is the auger gear case. The higher quality
models have a big steel gear case with large gears on roller
bearings. The lesser models have a thin aluminum housing, small
gears and are just bearings not roller bearings. The lesser gear cases
by Ariens are still better than most manufacturers of lesser
quality.
Check for slop in auger gear case. Turn the impeller blades and see
how much play there is before the auger blades move. If the impeller
shaft lifts noticeably when the blades are turned then pass on the snowblower.
There's too much wear to take a chance on a purchase.
Robustness of the auger blades. Companies are coming out with
thinner and thinner auger blades. Hitting a rock, branch now and
then is expected and should not permanently damage the augers. These days
the augers are less robust and bend. Auger blades are held on with
pins that should shear when something is hit.
Thickness of metal used. Banging on the intake housing will give
you and idea of how much metal or how solid the machine is. The
older machines had fantastic paint, quality metal and a lot of it. Many
older machines from the mid-60's through the early 80's will outlast
machines made today.
Quality of paint. Scrapes inside the blower housing are
expected. Depending on the type of area the snowblower cleared there
may or may not be paint removed inside the bucket and impeller.
Snowblowers pickup dirt and stones so get scrapped on the inside.
Some people clear stone driveways and catch lots of rocks. Scraping and
internal rust is not important provided it's surface rust. There are
many 20-30 year old snowblowers around with quite a bit of rust. The
metal used then was quality and the parts all still solid. Newer
machines with rust could be a problem. Many have surface rust which
is not a big deal but deep rust or heavy bubbling under the paint is an
issue. If the rust is not deep, the metal still strong then it's not
critical. Rust inhibitor like Must for Rust can be applied and
Rust-O-Liem over that
for protection.
Motors: Mostly Tecumseh and some Briggs. The Tecumsehs and
Briggs are great engines and given proper maintenance and use will last 20
years easily. Motors wear and will loose their compression. Rings
and valves wear so the older motors will not perform as well as new
engines. But the old motors will still toss snow and far but not at
far as a new motor. Most peoples requirements can be met by a second
hand snowblower with an older motor. Many of the new makers are
using foreign made OHV engines and they are pretty good.
SUMMARY: The lesser machines are not as good as the big brands but can
last for many years. There's also a big price break so a trade
off. Rust is ok if on the surface. The key is
maintenance and proper use by the prior owner.
|